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Fans Before Mans

9/15/2025

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Did you know there are different types of volume fans?  Lash artists can pinpoint which to use immediately based on the clients natural lashes, manageability, and style they want.  But how are you, the client, supposed to know which to book?

Below is a guide to the different types of lash extension fans and what lash artists use them for.

Handmade Fans

Handmade fans were first to arrive on the scene.  With this method, the artist will create the fan by shimmying their tweezers so the lashes splay out evenly.  This type of fan is the most customizable.  The amount of lashes per fan, curl types, weight of lash extensions, and how narrow or wide to make the fan all play a part in determining the desired look.  It is the most cost effective, but the on the downside, it is also the most time consuming.

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Types of looks:  Since these are so customizable, they will work for virtually all looks to create fullness and fluff.  They're also great for layering and creating textured for wispy lashes.  We can use handmade fans in every set on our menu except for classic lashes!

Recommended for:
  • Clients who struggle with retention-handmade fans wrap the natural lash, giving more surface area to bond.
  • Clients who have fine or sparse lashes.  The lash artist has more control as to what lashes go on your natural lash, which means a look that will hold up better and allow your growth cycle to remain in optimal condition.
  • Clients who want an eyeliner look, fox eye, skyline, or looks that require a specific curl.

​Not recommended for:
  • Clients who are limited on time
  • Clients who want an ultra dense look

Premade Fans

Premade fans are just what you'd think.  They are lash extensions already made into a fan from the manufacturer.  Because the lash artist doesn't have to spend time creating the fan, they can apply more premade extensions than handmade in the same amount of time.

Types of looks:  Premade fans are great for creating density.  Fuller volume and hybrid looks as well as mega volume sets are the preferred styles for these fans.   Volume Express, Hybrid Boost, and Mega Volume are all styles on our menu using premade fans.

You can also swap handmade fans out for premades in any of our "spiked" looks.  We love this options because spikes (or "closed fans," more about them in the next section) can take away from density.  Using premades allows the artist to quickly add fans to the lower lash layer,  which creates a defined
 lash line.

Recommended for:
  • Clients who go three weeks in between fills.  At three weeks, there will be a significant amount of grown out lashes and new growth that will take longer to replace.  Premade volume fans speed up the process.  
  • Clients who get "spiked" or textured hybrid looks but want a darker lash line
  • Clients who want density
  • Clients who still struggle with retention.  Although your retention may not be better with premades, you won't always be playing catch-up since the artist can get more on within the same time allotment.
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​Not recommended for:
  • Clients who want an eyeliner look, fox eye, skyline, or looks that require a specific curl.
  • Clients who want or need shorter length.  Premades lengths are limited.
  • Clients who don't want added cost to their service.

Closed Fans

Also known as: bundles, wet lashes, or spikes.  For this technique, we use the same lashes we do for our handmade fans, but instead of splaying them out, we create closed bundles that poke straight up.  

​Types of looks:  The styles on our menu that use closed fans are our Spiky Half Set, Wet Lash, Spiked Hybrid, and Spiked Volume.

Recommended for:
  • Clients who like dimension and a wispy look
  • Clients who want length, but don't have strong natural lashes to support it
  • Clients who want a defined lash line

​Not recommended for:
  • Clients who want density over length
  • Clients who want an ultra natural look
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    • Acne Bootcamp Clinic
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